Should You Remove a SharkBite Plastic Insert?

No, when connecting rigid copper pipe to a first-generation SharkBite fitting, you do not need to remove the plastic tube liner, and it is generally better to leave it in place. Copper pipe slips over the liner and seats against the fitting’s tube stop; forcing the liner out can damage the fitting’s grab ring. The important work is identifying the fitting version, preparing the copper cleanly, and pushing the pipe fully home.

What the Plastic Insert Does

The plastic piece inside some SharkBite fittings is called a tube liner or stiffener. It supports flexible pipe from the inside so the pipe stays round where the fitting’s stainless-steel grab ring and O-ring seal around the outside.

Rigid copper does not need that internal support, but it can fit over the liner without interfering with the connection.

The plastic liner and the O-ring seal are different parts, so removing the liner will not correct a leak caused by damaged or poorly prepared copper.

In a push-to-connect fitting, the stainless-steel teeth grip the outside of the pipe, while the O-ring seals against the pipe’s smooth outer surface. A burr, scratch, dent, old solder blob, or incomplete insertion is more likely to cause trouble than an intact liner left inside a fitting.

How to Connect Copper Without Removing the Insert

Use this table to decide whether the insert should stay before you start cutting or preparing pipe.

Fitting and Pipe Combination	What to Do With the Insert	Why
First-generation SharkBite fitting and rigid copper	Leave the existing liner in place	Copper does not require it, but the pipe fits over it and reaches the tube stop
First-generation SharkBite fitting and PEX, HDPE, or PE-RT	Keep or install the liner	These flexible pipe types need the liner
SharkBite Max fitting and copper	Do not look for or add a PEX liner	SharkBite Max does not require a PEX tube liner
SharkBite Max fitting and PEX	Do not add a liner unless the specific product calls for another component	The SharkBite Max design does not require a PEX tube liner

Step 1: Identify the Fitting and the Pipe

Confirm whether the fitting is a first-generation SharkBite product or is labeled SharkBite Max. The first-generation version may contain a removable-looking plastic tube liner; SharkBite Max uses a different internal design.
If you are joining rigid copper to a first-generation fitting, leave the liner where it is.
Make sure the pipe is suitable for the fitting before proceeding. SharkBite lists hard-drawn Type K, L, and M copper complying with ASTM B88 as compatible. Annealed Type M copper is limited to sizes not exceeding 3/8-inch nominal.
Do not use SharkBite push fittings on soft or rolled copper tubing, except annealed Type M not exceeding 3/8-inch nominal. Soft or rolled copper tubing other than annealed Type M not exceeding 3/8-inch nominal does not provide the firm, round outer surface the fitting is designed to grip and seal.

Step 2: Cut and Prepare the Copper

Shut off the water supply and open a faucet or fixture to relieve pressure and drain the line before cutting.
Complete any nearby soldering before installing the SharkBite fitting. Heat can travel through copper and damage the fitting’s O-ring.
Cut the copper squarely with an appropriate tubing cutter. An angled or crushed cut can prevent the pipe from seating correctly.
Deburr the inside and outside of the cut end. Remove every sharp edge that could nick the O-ring as the pipe enters the fitting.
Wipe away dirt, oxidation, and loose debris. The copper should be round, clean, and free of scratches, gouges, or dents where the fitting will seal.
If there is old solder on the pipe, remove it carefully with fine 180-grit sandpaper. Use the paper only to remove solder residue; do not polish the whole sealing area as though you were preparing the pipe for soldering, because unnecessary scratches can create an O-ring leak path.

Step 3: Mark the Insertion Depth and Seat the Pipe

Mark the required insertion depth on the copper before joining it. The mark gives you a visual check that the pipe reached the tube stop rather than merely passing the O-ring.
For a SharkBite Max fitting, mark a 1/2-inch CTS pipe at the required insertion depth from its end. Mark a 3/4-inch CTS pipe at the required insertion depth from its end. For other nominal sizes and for first-generation fittings, mark the pipe at its required insertion depth before connecting it.
Push the copper straight into the fitting in one firm motion until it reaches the internal tube stop. Initial resistance may be the O-ring rather than the tube stop.
On SharkBite Max, the depth mark should finish within 0.005 inch (0.13 mm) of the end of the release collar. If the mark sits noticeably farther away, remove the fitting and investigate the cut, burrs, or obstruction before pressurizing the line.
If you are placing SharkBite Max fittings close together, allow at least 1 inch of space between fittings so there is room to use a disconnect tool later.

Step 4: Restore Water and Inspect the Connection

Turn the water supply back on gradually.
Inspect the fitting and the copper immediately for moisture. Run the connected fixture or appliance and check again under normal water flow.
If you find a leak, shut the water back off. Do not try to force the pipe farther into a pressurized fitting.
A dry fitting with the insertion mark in the correct position is ready to remain in service.

When the Insert Rules Differ

First-Generation Fittings on PEX, HDPE, and PE-RT

In first-generation SharkBite fittings, the tube liner is necessary for PEX, HDPE, and PE-RT pipe because it supports the pipe wall inside the fitting.

A missing liner can allow flexible tubing to deform under the grab ring and O-ring. If you removed a liner while working on a first-generation fitting for PEX, HDPE, or PE-RT, replace it with the correct SharkBite liner before making the connection.

Why You Should Not Force a Copper Liner Out

A first-generation liner can be removed, but should not be removed for rigid copper. Pulling it out can catch or damage the grab ring teeth that hold the pipe in place.

Rigid copper slides over the liner and holds it against the tube stop. Needless disturbance can affect the fitting’s internal parts.

Check Whether the Fitting Suits the Job

Copper Type and Pipe Condition

A push fitting needs a sound sealing surface. Hard-drawn Type K, L, and M copper pipe are the standard compatible choices for SharkBite fittings when they meet ASTM B88 requirements. Old copper can still work if the sealing area is round, smooth, and free of deep corrosion, dents, scratches, solder residue, and burrs.

Do not assume every copper-looking tube is acceptable. Soft copper coils and rolled tubing differ from rigid, hard-drawn pipe.

Pressure, Temperature, and Permanent Use

For its first-generation fittings, SharkBite lists a rating of 200 psi and 200°F (93°C). That rating applies to those SharkBite products, not automatically to every push fitting or every plumbing system; confirm the exact product specification for the fitting in hand.

A properly installed SharkBite connection can be a permanent repair. SharkBite fittings are approved under the Uniform Plumbing Code and International Plumbing Code for permanent installation when installed correctly and used in compliance with local plumbing requirements.

Removing a Connected SharkBite Fitting

SharkBite fittings are intended as permanent connections, not fittings to repeatedly connect and disconnect. If you need to change the layout, replace a damaged section, or correct an incomplete insertion, remove the fitting with the proper release tool.

Step 1: Shut Off and Depressurize the Line

Shut off the water supply serving the fitting.
Open a downstream faucet or fixture to relieve pressure and drain the pipe.
Dry the fitting area so you can inspect the pipe after removal.

Step 2: Release the Fitting

Use a SharkBite Disconnect Clip or Disconnect Tongs sized for the fitting.
Press the tool against the release collar to spread the grab ring teeth away from the pipe.
While holding the release collar in, pull the pipe straight out of the fitting.

Do not twist, pry, or dig into the fitting with a screwdriver. Those actions can damage the collar, grab ring, O-ring, or liner.

Step 3: Rebuild and Test the Connection

Inspect the removed pipe end. If the sealing area is scratched, gouged, out of round, or still carries old solder, cut back to sound pipe and prepare a fresh end.
Avoid repeatedly reusing a fitting that has been connected and disconnected several times. Use an undamaged fitting for the rebuilt connection.
For a SharkBite Max replacement, mark the pipe at the required insertion depth.
Push the pipe to the tube stop, restore water gradually, and inspect the rebuilt joint for leaks.

Confirm a Secure Connection and Prevent Leaks

Before closing a wall, covering a pipe, or treating the repair as complete, use this short check:

The pipe type has been confirmed as compatible with the fitting.
The cut is square and completely deburred.
The pipe has reached the fitting’s tube stop.
On SharkBite Max, the insertion mark is within 0.005 inch (0.13 mm) of the release collar.
No soldering or other torch work will be done after the push fitting is installed.
The fitting remains dry after the water supply is restored and the line is used.

If any part of the connection is questionable, depressurize the line and correct it before enclosing the pipe.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do You Need Pipe Inserts With Copper Pipe?

No. Rigid copper does not need the tube liner found in first-generation SharkBite fittings, and the liner may remain in place while copper is installed. SharkBite Max fittings do not require a PEX tube liner for either copper or PEX connections.

Should I Remove the Plastic Insert for PEX?

No, not in a first-generation SharkBite fitting. The tube liner is necessary for PEX, HDPE, and PE-RT because those pipe materials need internal support at the fitting. SharkBite Max uses a different design and does not require a PEX tube liner.

Can You Use SharkBite Connectors on Copper Pipe?

Yes, SharkBite push-to-connect fittings can join compatible rigid copper pipe. The approved copper types include hard-drawn Type K, L, and M pipe meeting ASTM B88, plus annealed Type M only through 3/8-inch nominal size. Soft or rolled copper, except annealed Type M not exceeding 3/8-inch nominal, should not be used.

Why Do Some Plumbers Dislike SharkBite Fittings?

Some plumbers prefer soldered, crimped, or press connections. A SharkBite fitting depends heavily on correct pipe preparation, full insertion, and using approved pipe. Properly installed SharkBite fittings are approved for permanent installation under the Uniform Plumbing Code and International Plumbing Code.

Can a SharkBite Fitting Be Left as a Permanent Repair?

Yes, when the fitting is compatible with the pipe, installed to the required insertion depth, and permitted by local code. First-generation SharkBite fittings are rated by SharkBite for 200 psi and 200°F (93°C). Inspect the completed connection under normal operation before closing a wall or covering the pipe.